EMPIRE TURKISH GRILL-Reviews-Jewish Herald Voice-Ted Power

Empire Turkish Grill

Ted Power - Jewish Herald Voice - 07.18.2003

Casual and gracious, this redo of the old Lantern Inn restaurant impressed me with its delightful ambience and remarkable menu. After tasting dozens of dishes, I won’t even attempt to name my favorites. It’s one of the few restaurants where I know I can order anything and will adore it. Owner Kamil Ramazanoglu is Turkish, of course, but settled in New Jersey. His last restaurant was Baysis Shishkabob in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn. Following some friends to Houston, he opened Empire Turkish Grill just one year ago.

Fresh baked bread called pide arrives soon after you are seated. Not to be mistaken for pita, this bread was almost challah-like. It was cut into small chunks, the better to dip it into a za’atar dip. If that sounds Middle Eastern to you, it is, because the culinary influences in Turkey lean strongly to that area as well as Greece, Persia and even China. Za’atar is a mixture of oregano, thyme, sumac, sesame seeds and olive oil. I ordered a glass of wine from a small list that included some good California wines and some Turkish wines.

With 17 cold appetizers on the menu, if you are with a group of people, I recommend the Combination Platter. For a reasonable price, you can select a nice variety. On my last visit, I had Lebni (a mixture of finely chopped and spicy veggies, with walnuts), (yogurt curd with garlic, dill and walnuts), Eggplant Sauté, Sautéed Spinach with onions and garlic, Babbaganus, Tabuli, and Hummus. For hot appetizers, go for the Falafel (made with fava beans instead of garbanzo) and Turkish Cheese Cigars (Feta and parsley wrapped in filo).

If you don’t want a variety of hot or cold appetizers, the Shepherd’s Salad is a must. Diced tomatoes, cucumber, parsley, onion and green pepper are mixed with olive oil and vinegar, then topped with shredded Feta cheese. This is one great salad! I also enjoy Empire’s Red Lentil Soup made with tomatoes, onions and spices.

For your main course, I recommend the Mixed Grills. These platters are good for two or more. The Anatolian Grill includes chunks of marinated chicken breast, Shish Kabab (lamb cubes) and Turkish Gyro over a bed of rice. The plate also includes red cabbage, sliced onions, grilled tomato and pepper. I also like Filet Mignon Kabobs and the ground-meat rolls on skewers. For an extra special treat, try Stuffed Cabbage Leaves. They are very different from the Holishkes I’m used to, but they are terrific.

Now, let’s talk dessert. Yes, they have Baklava. But, wait until you taste Tel Kadayifi, shredded wheat dipped in honey and topped with pistachios or Kazandibi, Turkey’s famous rolled caramelized vanilla milk pudding. Dried Apricots stuffed with fresh cream and almonds are something else. Finally, an unbelievable rice pudding – it is heavily caramelized on top and sprinkled with crushed pistachios. Finish your meal with authentically sludgy Turkish coffee or the incredibly tasty Turkish tea.

Empire Turkish also does full-service catering. Imagine surprising your guests with a Turkish dinner! Their menu is quite large, and I am enjoying working my way through it. They are located at 12448 Memorial, between Gessner and the Tollway, 713/827-7475. They are open every day for lunch and dinner.